Trip report Cyprus, 13 to 27 April 2006

April is probably the best time of year to visit Cyprus. The island still is very green, temperatures can be very enjoyable and plenty of migrant species are present. We were based in Polis, in the northwest. This proved to be an excellent choice, as Polis is a quiet, small town situated close to good birding areas such as Baths of Aphrodite, Neo Chorio and the Evretou dam. The Bougainvillea complex we used as our base is also recommended, as it has good facilities and a friendly owner. Besides, interesting species such as Cyprus Wheatear, Black Francolin and Scops Owls were all observed from the apartment!

Although we did a good deal of birding, this wasn't an exclusive bird watching trip. Cyprus is large and the Akrotiri Peninsula and the Troodos mountains were as far as we drove east. We skipped good birding sites such as the Larnaka sewage works as they meant at least a two hour drive one way.

For localities and detailed data on the avifauna, we used 'The Birds of Cyprus' by P. Flint and P. Stewart. Besides this excellent (if occasionally somewhat outdated) resource, several trip reports proved useful—travellingbirder.com has a good selection.

Not mentioned in the book or any of the trip reports are Pafos sewage works and Anarita park. Both sites are easily accessed from the B6 motorway, which runs parallel to the A6, the only highway in Cyprus. For Pafos sewage works, turn south (towards the coast) in Acheleia, opposite of the church (an agricultural research center is signposted here). Follow this tarmac road, which passes the airport on the westhand side, for several kilometers until it turns into a dirt track at the sewage works. We asked for permission to enter, which was no problem. Anarita park can be reached from the B6 by turning north towards Agia Varvara (E606). When we visited, the sign had disappeared, so be sure to clock the distance when you pass the viaduct underneath the A6 highway. At exactly 3.0 km, just before the road ascends into the hills, turn right onto a dirt track. If you follow this track you will have good views of two different valleys, which were excellent for birds of prey and other migrants. Finally, we were invited to a ring camp organized by John Cranfield and colleagues, which was located along the dirt track from Neo Chorio to the Smiyies picnic ground, about 500 m before the Agios Minas church.

	Little Grebe: 10+ birds at Asprokremnos pools, Fassouri reed bed and Zakaki pool.
	Scopoli's Sheaterwater: 1 ex past Pomos, 22-04.
	Yelkouan Shearwater: 1 ex past Pomos, 22-04.
	Shag: 1 juvenile Mandria beach, 24-04; 8 ex Kensington cliffs, 26-04.
	Great Bittern: 1 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17-04.
	Little Bittern: 1 ex Asprokremnos pools, 15-04; 1 ex Zakaki pool, 25-04.
	Night Heron: 1 ex Evretou dam, 18 and 19-04; 1 ex Asprokremnos pools, 23-04.
	Cattle Egret: 8 and 4 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17 and 25-04.
	Squacco Heron: 6 ex past Pafos headland, 15-04; 3 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17 and 25-04; 3 ex Evretou dam, 18 and 19-04; 1 ex Asprokremnos pools, 21-04; 1 ex Polis-Pomos road, 22-04; 1 ex Kidasi bridge, 23-04; 1 ex Zakaki pool, 25-04. [Squacco Heron at shallow end of Evretou dam, 19-04]
	Little Egret: 2 ex Lady's Mile beach, 17-04; 2 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17 and 25-04; 2 ex Evretou dam, 19-04; 1 ex Asprokremnos pools, 21 and 23-04; 2 ex Mavrokolymbos dam, 24-04; 3 ex Zakaki pool, 25-04.
	Grey Heron: 4 ex Asprokremnos dam, 15-04; 1 and 2 ex Evretou dam, 18 and 19-04; 6 ex over Maa Palaiokastro, Coral Bay, 20-04.
	Purple Heron: 1 ex Zakaki pool, 17-04; 1 ex Asprokremnos pools, 18-04; 1 ex Evretou dam, 19-04; 1 ex over Maa Palaiokastro, 20-04; 1 ex Kidasi bridge, 23-04; 1 ex Bishop's pool, 25-04.
	Glossy Ibis: 1 ex Zakaki pool, 17-04; about 60 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17 and 25-04; about 20 ex over Evretou dam, 17-04; 1 ex Pafos sewage works, 18-04; 1 ex Asprokremnos pools, 18, 19 and 23-04. [Part of a group of 60 Glossy Ibises over Fassouri reed bed, 25-04]
	Greater Flamingo: 4 ex Akrotiri salt lake, 25-04 (previously none on 17-04); 2 ex (at least, we were en route to the airport) Larnaka salt lake, 27-04.
	Mallard: quite common at Fassouri reed bed, Zakaki pool and several reservoirs.
	Gadwall: 2 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17-04.
	Pintail: 2 ex Zakaki pool, 17-04.
	Shoveler: 2 ex Zakaki pool, 17 and 25-04; 3 ex Fassouri reed bed, 25-04.
	Common Teal: one drake Asprokremnos pools 15 to 23-04.
	Garganey: the commonest duck (largest number 10+), seen at Asprokremnos pools, Pafos sewage works, Fassouri reed bed and Zakaki pool.
	Ferruginous Duck: 2 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17-04.
	Griffon Vulture: exceptional views of a bird passing over at Kensington cliffs no higher than 10 m above us; this individual carried a yellow wing-tag without inscription.
	Montague's Harrier: adult male and female migrating together Evretou dam, 17-04; ad female Anarita park, 18-04; subad male Asprokremnos reservoir near Foinikas, 21-04.
	Pallid Harrier: ad male Anarita park, 15-04; ad female Evretou dam shallow end, 18-04.
	Marsh Harrier: several individuals at Fassouri reed bed, Zakaki pool and Akrotiri salt lake on both visits.
	Sparrowhawk: 1 female Aphrodite trail, Akamas, 14-04.
	Common Buzzard: group of 5 ex over Evretou dam, 17-04.
	Long-legged Buzzard: 2 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17-04.
	Bonelli's Eagle: pair at Kedares, 23-04.
	Red-footed Falcon: female at Anarita park, hunting together with Lesser Kestrels, 23-04.
	Kestrel: quite common.
	Lesser Kestrel: 12 ex Anarita park, 18-04; only 3 ex left (2 2cy males and 1 female) on 23 and 24-04. [2cy male Lesser Kestrel, Anarita park, 18-04]
	Eleonora's Falcon: 1 ex Baths of Aphrodite, 24-04; excellent views of 7 ex at Kensington cliffs, 25-04.
	Peregrine: 1 ex Aphrodite trail, Akamas, 14-04; 2cy male Asprokremnos dam, 15-04 (probably ssp calidus); 1 ex Kedares mobbing a pair of Bonelli's Eagles; 2cy male being mobbed by 2 Eleonara's Falcons Kensington cliffs 25-04.
	Black Francolin: common in the northwest, e.g. heard daily from our apartment. Rather difficult to get a good look of, but calling males seen well at Polis, Lara and the Pafos mosaics (= Pafos headland); a pair was seen along the road from Latsi to Neo Chorio. [Male Black Francolin at Pafos headland, 21-04]
	Chukar: quite common in areas such as Baths of Aphrodite, Evretou dam and near Asprokremnos pools; one bird leasurely crossing the road at Episkopi, 25-04. [Chukar at Evretou dam, 18-04]
	Quail: regularly flushed at sites such as Pafos headland, Tombs of the Kings, Maa Palaiokastro, etc; also heard calling from our apartment, 24-04.
	Little Crake: a pair at Evretou dam, 19-04.
	Water Rail: 1 ex heard Zakaki pool, 17-04.
	Moorhen: quite common at Asprokremnos pools, Kouris dam, Fassouri reed bed and Zakaki pool.
	Coot: at same sites as Moorhen but more common; largest number 30+ at Zakaki pool.
	Stone-curlew: heard from our apartment in Polis on 25-04.
	Black-winged Stilt: 2 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17 and 25-04; 1 ex Pafos sewage works, 18-04; 14 ex past Madria beach, 24-04. [Black-winged Stilt at Fassouri reed bed, 17-04]
	Collared Pratincole: 1 ex Zakaki pool, 17-04 was the only bird seen.
	Kentish Plover: 10+ ex Lady's Mile beach, 17 and 25-04.
	Spur-winged Lapwing: three pairs at Pafos sewage works (possibly breeding: copulation observed), 18 and 19-04; 2 ex Maa Palaiokastro, Coral Bay, 19-04. [One bird of six present at Pafos sewage works, 18-04]
	Curlew Sandpiper: 4 ex Pafos sewage works, 19-04.
	Little Stint: 4 ex Lady's Mile beach, 17 and 25-04; 1 ex Pafos sewage works, 18 and 19-04.
	Ruff: quite common at pools and reservoirs, e.g. Evretou dam and Pafos sewage works.
	Spotted Redshank: 1 ex Evretou dam, 19-04.
	Greenshank: usually seen together with Ruff.
	Wood Sandpiper: the commonest sandpiper; largest number 10+ at Pafos sewage works, 17-04.
	Common Sandpiper: slightly less common than Wood Sandpiper.
	Green Sandpiper: seen only at Asprokremnos pools (15-04) and Evretou dam (17-04).
	Marsh Sandpiper: 2 ex Pafos sewage works, 18-04.
	Common Snipe: 1 ex Kouris dam, 17-04; 1 ex Evretou dam, 18-04; 1 ex Pafos sewage works, 19-04. A bulky bird flying off without erratic movements and without calling at Mandria beach (24-04) may well have been a Great Snipe, but light conditions did not allow positive identification.
	Slender-billed Gull: 2 ex past Pafos headland, 15-04; 2 ex Larnaka salt lake, 27-04.
	Yellow-legged Gull: quite common at the coast, breeding on off-shore islands; occasionally found more inland (e.g. at Evretou and Mavrokolymbos dams). [Pair of Yellow-legged Gulls at Cape Drepanum, 24-04]
	Lesser Black-backed Gull: 4 ad Baltic Gull Larus f. fuscus at sea off Pafos headland.
	Gull-billed Tern: 1 ex past Pafos headland, 15-04; 1 ex Fassouri reed bed, 17-04.
	Wood Pigeon: surprisingly common given the number of shotgun cartridges found everywhere on the island; largest group 75+ Asprokremnos dam, 18-04.
	Rock Pigeon: possibly non-feral birds in Akamas (14-04) and near Kedares (23-04).
	Collared Dove: very common around settlements.
	Turtle Dove: became more common during the second week, e.g. 4 ex Fassouri reed bed and 5 ex Bishop's Pool, 25-04.
	Great Spotted Cuckoo: 4 ex and 6 ex at Evretou dam, 17 and 18-04; 2 ex Anarita park, 18-04; 1 ex, 3 ex and 2 ex, Smiyies track, 20, 22 and 26-04; 1 ex Asprokremnos pools, 23-04. [Great Spotted Cuckoo, one of three present at ring camp Smiyies track, 22-04]
	Barn Owl: one flew over during dinner at Finikas restaurant, Polis on 24-04.
	Scops Owl: Cyprus has an endemic subspecies of Scops Owl, Otus scops cyprius, which differs from nominate scops by wing length, plumage and especially call. Instead of the monotonous 'pyuu', the song of cyprius consists of two clearly different tones. 2-3 ex were heard every evening from the apartment, once one was seen calling 2 m from the window! Also heard at daytime at Evretou dam, 19-04; Baths of Aphrodite, 20-04; Agios Minas church (along track to Smiyies pic nic ground), 21-04.
	Little Owl: heard at Baths of Aphrodite, 14-04; 2 ex Anarita park, 18-04; heard from apartment, 25-04. [Little Owl, Anarita park, 18-04]
	Alpine Swift: 2 and 6 ex Asprokremnos dam, 15 and 21-04; 2 ex Anarita park, 18-04; 3 ex Kensington cliffs, 25-04.
	Pallid Swift: not seen daily, but probably overlooked in groups of Swifts as long as these were silent; maximum of 15 ex at Fassouri reed bed, 25-04.
	Common Swift: seen daily but not in large numbers.
	Pied Kingfisher: 1 female Zakaki pool, 17-04; 1 female Fassouri reed bed, 17-04. [Record shot of female Pied Kingfisher, Zakaki pool, 17-04]
	Bee-eater: only very few observed: heard between Lara and Neo Chorio, 20-04 and at Smiyies track 22 and 26-04 (the same group?); 2 ex Asprokremnos pools, 23-04.
	Roller: observed daily; best day 18-04 with 2 ex including displaying bird at Evretou dam, 4 ex along the Pafos-Polis road and 2 ex Anarita park.
	Hoopoe: seen almost daily but always in small numbers, e.g. 1 ex Baths of Aphrodite, 14-04; 1 ex Anarita park, 15-04; 1 ex Evretou dam, 18 and 19-04; 2 ex Lara, 19-04; 1 ex Pomos, 22-04; 2 ex Smiyies track, 26-04.
	Wryneck: 1 ex Bougainvillea apartments, Polis, 14-04; 1 ex Tombs of the Kings, Pafos, 19-04.
	Crested Lark: very common. [Crested Lark at Pafos mosaics, 21-04]
	Short-toed Lark: group of about 20 ex Pafos headland, 21-04; 1 ex caravan park, Baths of Aphrodite, 24-04; 5 ex Cape Drepanum, 24-04; 11 ex Mandria beach, 24-04.
	Crag Martin: 2 ex Stavros tis Psoka station, Pafos forest, 16-04.
	Sand Martin: seen only in small numbers in groups of swifts and swallows, e.g. at Asprokremnos pools and Fassouri reed bed.
	Red-rumped Swallow: not common at all: 3 ex at the apartment in Polis, 14-04; 1 ex Dhiarizos valley, 23-04; 1 ex Baths of Aphrodite, 24-04; a few at Cape Drepanum, 24-04; 1 ex Bishop's pool, 25-04.
	Barn Swallow: very common.
	House Martin: slightly less common than Barn Swallow; observed daily as birds were collecting mud for their nests in front of our apartment.
	Tree Pipit: one or more heard Aphrodite trail, Akamas, 14-04; 5 ex Evretou dam, 18 and 19-04; 3 ex Baths of Aphrodite, 24-04.
	Tawny Pipit: 1 ex Pafos Headland 15-04; 1 ex Anarita park, 15-04; 4 ex Mandria Beach, 24-04. [Tawny Pipit at Anarita park, 15-04]
	White Wagtail: 1 ex Evretou dam, 17-04; 1 ex Pafos sewage works, 18 and 19-04.
	Yellow Wagtail: according to various trip report this species should be very common, but not so when we visited: 1 ex Pafos headland, 15-04; 1 ex Lara, 19-04; mixed group of about 15 Yellow and Black-headed Wagtails Mandria, 24-04.
	Black-headed Wagtail: 2 ex Cape Drepanum, 24-04, plus the mixed group mentioned under Yellow Wagtail. [Black-headed Wagtail, Cape Drepanum, 24-04]
	Wren: several in Pafos forest (e.g. Cedar Valley), 16-06; Troodos, 24-04.
	Nightingale: 1 ex Polis marsh, 14-04; 1 ex Baths of Aphrodite, 14-04; 1 ex Tombs of the Kings, Pafos, 19-04; along Smiyies track on all visits.
	Whinchat: 1 ex Pafos sewage works, 17-04.
	Northern Wheatear: male Anarita park, 15-04; male and female Evretou dam, 19-04; 2 females Maa Palaiokastro, Coral Bay, 19-04; male caravan park, Baths of Aphrodite, 20-04. [Female Northern Wheatear at Maa Palaiokastro, 19-04]
	Eastern Black-eared Wheatear: female Pafos headland 15-04; female Lara beach, 20-04. [Female Eastern Black-eared Wheatear at Lara beach, 19-04]
	Cyprus Wheatear: once you recognize the typical 'bzz-bzz-bzz-bzz' song, you hear and see this species everywhere. Observed from sea level (seen daily from our apartment) practically up to the summit of Mount Olympos. [Male Cyprus Wheatear, Aphrodite trail, Akamas, 14-04]
	Blackbird: 1 ex singing Cedar Valley, 16-04; 1 ex singing visitor's centre, Troodos, 23-04.
	Song Thrush: 1 ex Aphrodite trail, Akamas, 14-04.
	Zitting Cisticola: common in fields and areable areas.
	Cetti's Warbler: common in suitable habitat but also heard in drier areas. [Bird caught at ring camp, Smiyies track, 22-04]
	Great Reed Warbler: 1 ex at Polis marsh, 14-04; several at Zakaki pool and Fassouri reed bed on 17 and 25-04.
	Caspian Reed Warbler: judging from the colouration of the birds seen, most or all were Acrocephalus [scripaceus] fuscus. Observed at the same sites as Great Reed Warbler.
	Sedge Warbler: outside the usual sites observed singing "in slow-motion" in tall maquis at Evretou dam, 18-04.
	Eastern Olivaceous Warbler: first heard Aphrodite trail, Akamas, 14-04; only became (very) common in the second week. [Bird caught at ring camp, Smiyies track, 22-04]
	Spectacled Warbler: 1 ex Anarita park, 18-04; heard Lara beach, 19-04.
	Rüppell's Warbler: male at Agios Minas church, 23-04.
	Sardinian Warbler: common in the northwest, easily outnumbering Cyprus Warbler; a pair with three fully grown young that had left the nest at Agios Minas church, 22-04.
	Cyprus Warbler: common e.g. at Asprokremnos pools but not around Polis! [Singing male Cyprus Warbler at Asprokremnos pools, 23-04]
	Lesser Whitethroat: 1 ex Tombs of the Kings, 19-04; 1 ex caravan park, Baths of Aphrodite, 20-04; 1 ex Agios Minas church, 26-04.
	Common Whitethroat: 1 ex Baths of Aphrodite 20 and 24-04.
	Blackcap: singing birds were heard almost daily; best numbers (25+) seen at Baths of Aphrodite and the track to Smiyies pic nic ground.
	Eastern Bonelli's Warbler: 1 ex Aphrodite Trail, Akamas, 14-04; 1 ex ringed 22-04; 1 ex Agios Minas church, 26-04. [Bird caught at ring camp, Smiyies track, 22-04]
	Wood Warbler: 1 ex near ring camp Smiyies track, 22-04.
	Willow Warbler: 1 ex near ring camp Smiyies track, 22-04.
	Chiffchaff: 1 ex singing Aphrodite trail, Akamas, 14-04.
	Pied Flycatcher: male at caravan park, Baths of Aphrodite, 24-04; male at Agios Minas church, 26-04.
	Collared Flycatcher: male at caravan park, Baths of Aphrodite, 24-04.
	Great Tit: common; two fully grown juveniles ringed at the Smiyies ring camp, 22-04.
	Coal Tit: common in Pafos forest, around Troodos and at higher elevations east of Pomos.
	Short-toed Treecreeper: quite common in Pafos forest and the Troodos mountains.
	Masked Shrike: 1 ex Aphrodite trail, Akamas, 14-04; 4 ex near Melandra, 16-04; 1 ex singing Smiyies pic nic, 20-04; 1 ex Foinikas, 21-04; 1 ex Kelefos bridge, 23-04 [Masked Shrike near Melandra, 16-04]
	Common Starling: 1 ex Pafos sewage works, 18-04.
	Golden Oriole: 1 ex Bishop's pool, 25-04; 1 ex moribund (traffic victim) at the Bougainvillea apartments, Polis, 27-04.
	Jay: several in Pafos forest and around Troodos.
	Magpie: common.
	Jackdaw: less often seen than Magpie and Pied Crow, but in good numbers near cliffs, both at the coast and inland.
	Pied Crow: common.
	House Sparrow: very common.
	Spanish Sparrow: less often seen than House Sparrow, but usually in very large colonies, e.g. at Polis marsh, Lara and St Nicolas Monastry (near Bishop's pool, Akrotiri).
	Chaffinch: common in Pafos forest and around Troodos; only observed elsewhere in good numbers at Akrotiri reed bed, 17-04.
	Serin: quite common in areas such as Baths of Aphrodite, along the Smiyies track and in the Pafos forest; a pair with 2 large young, probably still on nest, were seen at the Kelefos bridge, 23-04. [Bird caught at ring camp, Smiyies track, 22-04]
	Greenfinch: quite common around villages.
	Goldfinch: very common; the most abundant finch on the island.
	Linnet: quite common in areas such as Pafos headland.
	Crossbill: Cyprus Crossbill Loxia curvirostra guillemardi differs from other subspecies by its seemingly deeper bill and the washed out colours of adult males (not bright red); also the song is much more plastic than that of birds of the European mainland. 6 ex, including adult male, female and two juveniles were seen at the start of the Artemis Trail, Troodos, 23-04. [Adult male Cyprus Crossbill, Artemis trail, Troodos, 23-04]
	Corn Bunting: common around fields and meadows. [Corn Bunting at Evretou dam, 18-04]
	Ortolan Bunting: about 15 ex Anarita park, 15-04; 50+ Smiyies track, 20-04. [Ortolan Bunting, Anarita park, 15-04]
	Cretzschmar's Bunting: 1 ex Aphrodite trail, Akamas, 14-04; 1 ex Melandra, 16-04; 1 ex Evretou dam, 18-04; 1 ex near Lysos, 22-04.
	Black-headed Bunting: first observed near ring camp Smiyies track, 22-04. [Singing male at Agios Minas church near Smiyies pic nic, 26-04]